Mar 13, 2016

"YEH, MON", WORLD CLASS GOLF AWAITS IN MAJESTIC JAMAICA

I had few expectations as I prepared for my first trip to Jamaica, with the primary goal an escape from the February chill of the Windy City and a week relaxing poolside with a tropical drink in hand.  But wherever I travel, a review of the local golf scene is always on the pre-trip checklist to determine if packing the clubs is worth the trouble.  A quick internet search provided the answer, as three courses resided within a short ride from the Montego Bay resort, so sticks in tow I was off to the sunny Caribbean.

Great decision!  I played two rounds, one each at the courses at the Rose Hall Estate, and the par 71 White Witch and par 72 Cinnamon Hill layouts were nothing short of inspiring.  Each course plays to similar 6,800 yard lengths and difficult 74 / 135+ ratings / slopes.  The White Witch winds around the foothills of the mountains that blanket the majority of the island, with dramatic elevation changes and views of the Caribbean waters on 16 of the 18 holes.  The first hole tumbles 100 feet to the rolling fairway below with a gorgeous ocean backdrop, a great start to an amazing layout.

The front nine at Cinnamon Hill is relatively flat, with the par four 5th green and par three 6th hole bordering the sea.  The back nine, however, mimics the White Witch, a golfing roller coaster ride alternately diving and rising across the hilly landscape and ultimately reaching 350 feet above sea level at the 17th tee.  Both the White Witch and Cinnamon Hill were featured on the 2015 season of the Golf Channel's Altered Courses series, providing a perfect setting for the extreme golf challenge.

Both courses were designed (White Witch) or redesigned (Cinnamon Hill) by Robert Von Hagge and Rick Baril, two highly acclaimed international architects, and are considered among the best of the Caribbean isles.  Historic remnants of the 18th century sugar plantation that occupied the site are scattered throughout the courses, providing a look back into the past of the island nation that gained independence from Great Britain in 1962.

Jamaica is the 3rd largest island in the Caribbean, behind Cuba and Hispaniola (Dominican Republic and Haiti) and has a rich golf history dating back to 1865, the year the nine hole Manchester Golf Club opened in the inland resort town of Mandeville, the first course built in the Caribbean isles and the oldest surviving club in the Western hemisphere. 

There are currently 11 courses total operating in Jamaica, with the majority located at north shore resorts between Montego Bay and Ocho Rios. (The Ironshores course, a short drive from the Montego Bay airport, closed in 2014, though oddly some of the flags were still visible on the greens from highway A1.)  Some of the top names in golf course architecture have found their way to Jamaica over the last century to create their visions across the golf fertile island landscape.

Robert Trent Jones Sr. designed the Half Moon Golf Club, located in close proximity to the White Witch and Cinnamon Hill, and all three are often included together in golf packages. A tournament worthy 7,100 yard par 72, the club dates back to 1961 and has held a number of International events, including the Jamaican Open Championship and the European PGA Seniors Tour. 


12 miles west of Montego Bay is the Tryall Club, regarded as one of the most prestigious courses on the island.  Designed by Texan Ralph Plummer over 50 years ago, the course incorporates the Flint River, the mountain foothills and the coastline, with the signature par three 4th hole hard by the sea.  An episode of the classic "Shell's Wonderful World of Golf" was held at Tryall back in 1962, and it was once a regular stop on the LPGA tour.  The Johnnie Walker Invitational brought the world's best golfers to the island in the early '90's, with famous names such as Faldo, Couples and Els on the winners trophy. 

Heading east on highway A1 towards Ocho Rios, the 9 hole par three Golf Club Braco is a good warmup for its sister course, the Golf Club at Runaway Bay in St. Ann.  Rated as a more moderate challenge than the other north shore clubs, the course plays at 6,900 yards from the tips with a 124 slope, but the often gusty tradewinds can tax the best players on the par 72 track.

The Sandals Golf & Country Club lies in the hills above Ocho Rios, offering superb views across the 6,400 yard par 71 layout.  The original 9 hole course was opened in 1951 as the Upton Golf Club, and was subsequently purchased by Sandals in 1992 and expanded to 18 holes.  Complimentary golf is offered to guests at any of the three Sandals resorts in Jamaica.

On the west end of the island is the Negril Hills Golf Club.  One of the newer courses in Jamaica, Negril Hills opened in 1994 and features several elevated greens and tees in the lush countryside above the famed Seven Mile Beach.  The par 72 course plays at a modest 6,300 yards, and is considered one of the better values with green fees around $60 USD.

The bustling capital of Kingston at the south central part of Jamaica has two courses nearby.  The Caymanas Golf & Country Club is approximately 8 miles outside Kingston, designed by Canadian Howard Watson in 1958.  No ocean views here, but still a classic parkland course with plenty of picture perfect panoramas. 

Constant Spring Golf Club is located in Kingston proper and is the 2nd oldest course in Jamaica.  Stretching to only 6,100 yards, the original 9 holes of the current par 70 layout opened in 1920.  Renowned Scottish-Canadian architect Stanley Thompson is credited with the expansion in 1930, and the narrow fairways and small greens requires shot-making skills.  Thompson also fine tuned the Manchester Golf Club during his time on the island.

Part of the experience of golfing in Jamaica is the knowledge imparted by the caddies that are included in the green fees.  Garfield at White Witch and Damian at Cinnamon Hill were a godsend, especially on the greens as I was lost without their help deciphering the breaks and speed on the sloping putting surfaces. 

The one word that comes to mind to describe my Jamaica golf experience: PHENOMONAL!  The White Witch and Cinnamon Hill were exceptional and exciting layouts, the golf staffs were friendly and accommodating, and except for some rain at the start of my round at Cinnamon Hill, 85 degrees and sunny in February is hard to beat for this golf starved Chicagoan. 

This admittedly comes at a price, and rates will likely be in triple figures at the top courses, but check with the resort you're staying at, they just may have discounted green fee arrangements for guests.  (I saved $40 off the $150 rack rates at both rounds using the RIU resort special.)  Several tour operators also offer golf packages if you plan on playing multiple rounds during your stay.

Regardless of the cost, there will be no doubts or hesitations the next time I travel to Jamaica, the clubs are definitely coming along for another adventure of world class Caribbean golf!

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I am a life long Chicagoan and an avid golfer (or as much as my wife will let me!). And I am also a closet journalist who needed an outlet, so I decided to write reviews of the golf courses that I've played over the years in Chicago. Plus I've added detailed information on each course to help my fellow public golfers find the ones that best fits their skill level and budgets. So, read the reviews and use the comments to either give me a big "thumbs up" or tell me I'm full of crap, check out the courses and other pages, and let me know what you think... Mr Z